Despite its plain exterior, the thick golden walls of the Castle of Frangokastello cut an impressive figure against the sky. Most of the inner structures are no longer here, but there is still much to explore. Climb to the ramparts to immerse yourself in the viewpoint of a soldier peering through the battlements. Or head to the reconstructed tower to soak in an even more impressive view of the mountain rising in the distance and vast blue sea stretching across the horizon. But the most fascinating aspect of this castle fortress is the evocative legend surrounding it.

During the 19th century, the Castle of Frangokastello served shortly as a refuge for a small army of Greek independence fighters before they fell to a siege by the Turks. Since then, nearing the anniversary of the Battle of Frangokastello in May or June, this ghost army returns each year, advancing towards the fort in a haunting repetition of history. Known as Drosoulites, or “dew shadows”, they appear as a formidable band of human-like shadows in that magical moment when the sea has stilled and the sun has yet to reach its zenith. Don’t believe me? Why don’t you head down and see it for yourself?