Amidst the dense vegetation and closely packed trees is a break in the form of a clearing. In that clearing is a structure from the Old World, moss tinged rock from the ground carved by hand into a sprawling complex of shrines. Had a line been drawn through its centre, it would have produced a perfect split in this symmetrical structure. Your eyes are drawn to the distinctive gilded Sikhara, throwing out rays of light that hit its surface and you find yourself stepping closer. Wandering into the site, you’re first taken aback by the eyes of lionlike creatures staring into you, mouths gaping to reveal rows of pointed stone teeth. Steps ascend into a central stupa and you’re dazzled by the shine of gold in the natural shafts of light penetrating. Row upon row of niches filled in with statues of Buddha fill your sight, each unique in their design. Some are depicted as meditating, others in a gesture of blessing. Walking deeper, you find yourself in the midst of 4 key likenesses of the various Buddhas. Each towers several times above you, gilded in gold with features painted in in colour. You recall their names, Kassapa, Kakusandha, Kongamana and Gautama. You remember their stories from the illustrated tiles outdoors and sandstone reliefs. They speak of giants hindering Buddha’s path to enlightenment and their eventual defeat, they retell the Jataka tales. As you walk out, you are reminded how this is one of the first great temples to be built in this Archaeological and Historical site of Bagan. With its numerous statues, tiles and carvings, this isn’t just a religious spot but a repository of art to be enjoyed.