Located on Amman’s Jabal al-Qal’a is a site inhabited since the age of cavemen, known to the Greeks as Philadelphia, or the Rabbath Amman in the iron age and to us as Amman Citadel.
Imagine visiting a city where the concept of time doesn’t exist. Decades, centuries and millenniums merge into one another through the stone and rock left behind by the years. Scattered across the gentle slope and climb of a hill are artefacts of a different time period, a different civilization. From the Byzantine, you could find a cave that appears little more than a hole in the wall but was in fact a tomb from the 23rd BC. You jump forward to the 7th or 8th AD through a staggering guest house that could at one point have held messengers and emissaries from different countries as they waited attendance at the Umayyad Palace.
Not more than a 100m away is proof of the engineering ingenuity of civilizations long past in the form of an underground water cistern. Not only is it a massive 17.5m, its walls remain waterproofed till this day to prevent water leakage back into the ground. The years in between are tracked through the broken rubble and lone pillars standing stoic upon a peak. These belong to the Romans, the structure once a resplendent temple built under the name of Hercules and commissioned by none other than Marcus Aurelius. Each pillar still standing towers at close to 10m and its hard to fathom how such a structure must have been constructed all those years ago and in such great detail. The mystery doesn’t end there for a single discarded hand remains at the center of the ruin, all that remains of a towering statue of around 13m that had overseen the entire city. At the Citadel of Amman, time matters not as the centuries weave in and out of each other to build a tapestry of Jordan’s history.
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